Victoria James bespoke family jewellers

Victoria James bespoke family jewellery - about certified diamonds

The quality of your diamond is assessed on Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat.

Colour

The Gemological Institute of America was the first, is the most respected and common Diamond report and sets the industry standard for COLOR and CLARITY grading.

The finest quality Diamond is a colourless Diamond which is Graded as "D" which means it is absolutely free from any color. The next is very slight traces of color which can be observed by any expert Diamond valuer or grading laboratory.These are graded as E color or F color Diamonds. Diamonds which show very little traces of color are graded as G or H color diamonds. Slightly coloured diamonds are graded as I or J or K colour and so on.

A diamond can be found in any other colour also other than colourless, some coloured Diamonds such as pink are very rare Diamonds and can be very expensive or even priceless.

Clarity

Clarity is a measure of internal defects of a diamond called inclusions. Inclusions may be crystals of a foreign material or another diamond crystal, or structural imperfections such as tiny cracks that can appear whitish or cloudy. The number, size, colour, relative location, orientation, and visibility of inclusions can all affect the relative clarity of a diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) developed systems to grade clarity, which are based on those inclusions which are visible to a trained professional when a diamond is viewed under 10x magnification. The Clarity of your diamond is graded using this scale:

The GIA diamond grading scale is divided into six categories and eleven grades. The clarity categories and grades are:

Flawless category (FL) Diamonds have no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification. Internally Flawless category (IF) Diamonds have no inclusions visible under 10x magnification, only small blemishes on the diamond surface.

Very, Very Slightly Included category (VVS) Diamonds have minute inclusions that are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification. The VVS category is divided into two grades; VVS1 denotes a higher clarity grade than VVS2. Pinpoints and needles set the grade at VVS.

Very Slightly Included category (VS) Diamonds have minor inclusions that are difficult to somewhat easy for a trained grader to see when viewed under 10x magnification. The VS category is divided into two grades; VS1 denotes a higher clarity grade than VS2. Typically the inclusions in VS diamonds are invisible without magnification, however infrequently some VS2 inclusions may still be visible to the eye. An example would be on a large emerald cut diamond which has a small inclusion under the corner of the table.

Slightly Included category (SI) Diamonds have noticeable inclusions that are easy to very easy for a trained grader to see when viewed under 10x magnification. The SI category is divided into two grades; SI1 denotes a higher clarity grade than SI2. These may or may not be noticeable to the naked eye.

Included category (I) Diamonds have obvious inclusions that are clearly visible to a trained grader under 10x magnification. Included diamonds have inclusions that are usually visible without magnification or have inclusions that threaten the durability of the stone. The Included category is divided into three grades:

I1. denotes a higher clarity grade than I2, which in turn is higher than I3. Inclusions in I1 diamonds are often seen to the unaided eye. I2 inclusions are easily seen, while I3 diamonds have large and extremely easy to see inclusions that typically impact the brilliance of the diamond, as well as having inclusions that are often likely to threaten the structure of the diamond.)

Polish and symmetry are two important aspects of the cut. The polish describes the smoothness of the diamond's facets, With poor polish, the surface of a facet can be dulled, and may create blurred or dulled sparkle. It may constantly look like it needs to be cleaned.

The symmetry refers to alignment of the facets, with poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond. It is the Cut and symmetry of your diamond that determines how light is bounced from facet to facet, resulting in the wonderful sparkle diamonds are so loved for.

The techniques for cutting diamonds have been developed over hundreds of years, with perhaps the greatest achievements made in 1919 by mathematician and gem enthusiast Marcel Tolkowsky. He developed the round brilliant cut by calculating the ideal shape to return and scatter light when a diamond is viewed from above. The modern round brilliant has 57 facets (polished faces), counting 33 on the crown (the top half), and 24 on the pavilion (the lower half). The girdle is the thin middle part. The function of the crown is to diffuse light into various colors and the pavilion's function to reflect light back through the top of the diamond.

Carat

The size of your diamond is measured in Carat weight The carat weight measures the mass of a diamond. From 0.10cts upwards we can help find the perfect balance between size, quality and price.

Diamond Carat Origin The meaning of the word carat comes from Mediterranean region, where civilization has its roots, carob trees have flourished there since ancient times. It is against the seeds of these trees that diamonds were once weighed. One carob seed equals one modern carat, the word we use today to describe the weight of diamonds.

In the Far East, diamonds were weighed against grains of rice, and the term grainer was coined. Today, in many of the world's diamond districts, dealers still quantify the weight of diamonds in grainers. A four-grainer diamond equals one diamond carat. Since 1913, diamonds have been weighed against the metric system.

1 carat (ct.) = .2 grams = .007 ounces

Diamonds are weighed to three decimal points and then rounded to the nearest hundredth. Diamonds under one carat are usually described in points. The price per carat increases with carat weight, since larger diamonds are both rarer and more desirable for use as gemstones.

Shape

Diamonds are cut into lots of different shapes, Round Brilliants are the most popular Diamonds, followed by Princess cuts (square) Oval, Emerald cut and so on...

There is a shape to suit everbody’s tastes, why not try mixing different shape Diamonds to achieve something bespoke to you.

A few examples of the shapes available

Round brilliant cut Diamond

The modern round brilliant has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. It has 57 facets (polished faces), counting 33 on the crown (the top half), and 24 on the pavilion (the lower half). The girdle is the thin middle part. The function of the crown is to diffuse light into various colours and the pavilion's function to reflect light back through the top of the diamond. The facets maximize the volume of light that is reflected from the inside and produce the greatest brilliance. Other round diamond shapes include the Eight Cut or Single Cut, Old Cut, Swiss Cut, Rose Cut.

Princess cut Diamond

A relatively new shape which is usually square but sometimes oblong. It has a brilliant cut arrangement of facets instead of a step cut, which is usually found in square cut diamonds like the Emerald style. The Princess produces a much more brilliant diamond than a traditional step cut square or oblong and has some of the sparkle of a Round brilliant cut.

Emerald cut Diamond

A rectangular or square shaped cut with truncated corners and stepped facets, typically parallel to the girdle. The emerald cut diamond reflects less light than the standard brilliant cuts and needs to be of the highest quality as any inclusions can be visible.

Oval cut Diamond

Most oval diamonds are like a squashed round brilliant - a modification of the round brilliant cut. Aspect ratio of an Oval cut: The ratio of the length to the width should be about 1.5:1. Their depth to diameter ratio varies so they can never be a perfect proportion which results in a loss of some brilliance.

Marquise cut Diamond

An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. The Marquise shape is like a long oval which has been stretched out to a point at each end. They are most often seen as centre diamonds for engagement rings and wedding rings to balance the long, narrow shape.

Pear shape Diamond

The Pear Shaped Diamond is a fiery cut with lots of wonderful sparkle and flash. A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. The pear shaped diamond is also called the "teardrop diamond" because of its shape.

Cushion shape Diamonds

A four sided deep square or rectangle cut with rounded edges and large facets - it has a cushioned shaped girdle. The cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible light refraction and is therefore especially suited for candlelight.

Asscher cut Diamonds

The Asscher Cut was developed by Joseph Asscher, who was commissioned by the Royal Family to cut the world's largest diamond in history; the 3,106ct Cullinan diamond, after which he invented the now-famous Asscher cut. This cut reached its peak of popularity in the 1920's in very limited production. In 2001, the cut went through considerable research and development and was re-launched with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine. Because Asscher cuts have been revitalized, especially with the increasing popularity of square shapes, Princess and Asscher cuts are in demand more than ever. Up until 2001, the Asscher cut was a hard to come by commodity and available mostly in antique shops or from art deco jewellery dealers, here at Victoria James we love and are fascinated by the Asscher cut and try to complement them with art deco designs. It is a square, step cut shape with cropped corners. An almost octagonal outline enhances the brilliance of the stone.

Radiant cut Diamonds

This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance.

Heart shape Diamonds

Essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top containing 59 facets. The shape of the heart makes this diamond highly desirable for romantic occasions such as Valentine's Day and anniversaries.

Trilliant

First developed in Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.

Flourescence

About a third of all diamonds will glow under ultraviolet light, usually a blue color which may be noticeable under a black light or strong sunlight. Some diamonds with "very strong" fluorescence can have a "milky" or "oily" look to them, but they are also very rare and are termed "overblues."

The GIA conclude that with the exception of "overblues" and yellow fluorescent diamonds, fluorescence had little effect on transparency and that the strong and very strong blue fluorescent diamonds on average had better color appearance than non-fluorescent stones. At Victoria James, we aim to provide you with the highest quality diamond possible, but we appreciate that budget may also enter into the equation, so we can, if you wish, guide you to achieve the perfect balance.

Certified stones

Here at Victoria James Jewellers we provide you with a choice of Independently certified diamonds from the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), IGI (International Gemological Institute), HRD (Antwerp) and Anchorcert (Birmingham Assay office, jewellery quarter).

GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Diamond grading reports and certificates

IGI (International Gemological Institute) Diamond grading reports and certificates

HRD (Antwerp) Diamond grading reports and certificates

AnchorCert (Birmingham Assay Office, Jewellery Quarter) Diamond grading reports and certificates

GIA - Gemological Institute of America

GIA is the most respected and common Diamond report and sets the industry standard for COLOR and CLARITY grading.

A full GIA Diamond report.

A Mini GIA Diamond report

IGI - International Gemological Institute

I.G.I. provides a detailed certification that is not as strict as G.I.A. The I.G.I. certification provides more information than the G.I.A. diamond report by including the important pavilion and crown angles in their diamond report.

HRD - HRD(Hoge Raad voor Diamant) Antwerp NV

HRD Antwerp NV is the commercial subsidiary of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC). An HRD Diamond Certificate guarantees that the stone examined is indeed a real diamond, and contains a full and detailed quality description, focussing on the famous 4 Cs: Carat (weight), Colour, Clarity and Cut.

Anchorcert - Birmingham Assay office, Birmingham Jewellery Quarter

We also use Anchorcert as an independent grader and assessor of Diamonds, Anchorcert is the well respected Diamond grading department of the Birmingham Assay office, here in the jewellery quarter. It is recognised in the U.K. as a well respected and valued Diamond report, especially the mini report which gives great reassurance at a great price.(see our Hallmarking page for bit of history on the Assay office)

Diamond and gemstone reports

If you have a Diamond or gemstone, mounted or unset, (loose) and you would like your ring, pendant, earrings or loose stone graded then we can help, we use independent Gemmologists who can produce a full or mini report on your item.

We use Anchorcert as an independent grader and assessor of Diamonds, Anchorcert is the well respected Diamond grading department of the Birmingham Assay office, here in the jewellery quarter. (see our Hallmarking page for bit of history on the Assay office.) This means we can have your Diamonds assessed and returned to you safely and quickly.

There are two types of Diamond report available:

1. A full and comprehensive Diamond report with full dimensions, descriptions, photographs, diagrams etc in the form of a full size A4 glossy document.

Diamond Colour grade and quality

You will be given a colour grade in the form of a letter, starting from D (Best grade, colourless Diamond) through E, F, G, H etc.

Using the GIA Diamond Colour grading scale. Diamond clarity grade and quality. You will be given a Diamond Clarity description from Internally flawless (best clarity grade) through VVS, VS, Si etc. Using the GIA Diamond clarity scale. Diamond Carat weight. You will be given a Diamond weight from 0.20ct through to 2 or 3cts, this helps determine the size of your Diamond. Cut, polish and Symmetry grade. You will be given a grade description from Excellent (best grade for all three) through very good, good, fair etc. The best grade Diamond would be described as EX, EX, EX. (for Round brilliant cut Diamonds only) You will also receive a fluorescence grade and a girdle description. The cost of an Anchorcert full Diamond report is £70. 2. The mini Diamond report will give you a photograph of the Diamond, a Diamond colour grade, a Diamond clarity grade, measurement and a Diamond carat weight and comes in a neat pocket sized booklet, like a passport for a Diamond.

It is not as detailed as the full Diamond report but is sufficient enough to offer piece of mind as a third party has graded your Diamond. A mini report is suitable for loose, mounted and multi-set diamond jewellery. This report is also UKAS accredited The cost of an Anchorcert mini Diamond report is £45. Whether you would like your loose Diamond graded or your Diamond engagement ring or Diamond pendant assessed then we can help by providing a well respected, independent Diamond report. For more info, get in touch by using our direct message service on our contact us page or by giving us a call, we can arrange an appointment to see your items in our Birmingham Jewellery Quarter shop. Tanzanite Grade mini report Tanzanite is an increasingly popular gemstone. AnchorCert has developed a unique grading system for the Tanzanite gemstone and the report provides reassurance about the authenticity and quality of each stone submitted. This report can be carried out for loose, mounted and multi-set tanzanite jewellery.

The colour of a tanzanite is described as vivid (AAAA) Intense (AAA) moderate (AA) or pale (A). The clarity of a Tanzanite is a bit like the GIA clarity grading chart where the best clarity is described as Internally flawless, then very, very slightly included (VVS), VS, SI and included 1,2 and 3. As seen in the chart below.

AnchorCert (Birmingham Assay Office, Jewellery Quarter) Tanzanite grading reports and certificates

Tanzanites come in all shapes and sizes. The Mini Report provides weight, shape, measurements, colour and clarity as well as a digital image of the stone or jewellery piece.

The cost of an Anchorcert mini Tanzanite report is £45.