Diamond shapes

Diamonds are cut into lots of different shapes. Round brilliant cut diamonds are the most popular, followed by princess cut, oval, emerald cut, cushion, Asscher cut, pear shape, Marquise, Radiant, heart shape, trilliant and baguette.

There is a shape to suit everbody’s tastes, why not try mixing different shape diamonds to achieve something bespoke to you.

Click on a shape to learn more about them.

Round

The modern round brilliant has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. It has 57 facets (polished faces), counting 33 on the crown (the top half), and 24 on the pavilion (the lower half). The girdle is the thin middle part. The function of the crown is to diffuse light into various colours and the pavilion's function to reflect light back through the top of the diamond.

The facets maximize the volume of light that is reflected from the inside and produce the greatest brilliance. Other round diamond shapes include the Eight Cut or Single Cut, Old Cut, Swiss Cut, Rose Cut.

Princess

A relatively new shape which is usually square but sometimes oblong. It has a brilliant cut arrangement of facets instead of a step cut, which is usually found in square cut diamonds like the Emerald style. The Princess produces a much more brilliant diamond than a traditional step cut square or oblong and has some of the sparkle of a Round brilliant cut.

Radient

This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance.

Cushion

A four sided deep square or rectangle cut with rounded edges and large facets - it has a cushioned shaped girdle. The cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible light refraction and is therefore especially suited for candlelight.

Trilliant

First developed in Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.

Baguette

The long, rectangular baguette-cut diamond has octagonal corners. Baguette-cut diamond jewellery earned popularity in the 1920s and 1930s during the art deco and art nouveau movements, which emphasized geometric form with straight, clean lines. 

Although emerald-cut diamonds have more facets than baguette-cut diamonds, both stones offer a look and style that is different from the fiery princess and round cuts.

Emerald

A rectangular or square shaped cut with truncated corners and stepped facets, typically parallel to the girdle. The emerald cut diamond reflects less light than the standard brilliant cuts and needs to be of the highest quality as any inclusions can be visible.

Marquise

An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. The Marquise shape is like a long oval which has been stretched out to a point at each end. They are most often seen as centre diamonds for engagement rings and wedding rings to balance the long, narrow shape.

Oval

Most oval diamonds are like a squashed round brilliant - a modification of the round brilliant cut. Aspect ratio of an Oval cut: The ratio of the length to the width should be about 1.5:1. Their depth to diameter ratio varies so they can never be a perfect proportion which results in a loss of some brilliance.

Pear

The Pear Shaped Diamond is a fiery cut with lots of wonderful sparkle and flash. A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. The pear shaped diamond is also called the "teardrop diamond" because of its shape.

Asscher

The Asscher Cut was developed by Joseph Asscher, who was commissioned by the Royal Family to cut the world's largest diamond in history; the 3,106ct Cullinan diamond, after which he invented the now-famous Asscher cut. This cut reached its peak of popularity in the 1920's in very limited production. In 2001, the cut went through considerable research and development and was re-launched with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine. Because Asscher cuts have been revitalized, especially with the increasing popularity of square shapes, Princess and Asscher cuts are in demand more than ever.

Up until 2001, the Asscher cut was a hard to come by commodity and available mostly in antique shops or from art deco jewellery dealers, here at Victoria James we love and are fascinated by the Asscher cut and try to complement them with art deco designs.

It is a square, step cut shape with cropped corners. An almost octagonal outline enhances the brilliance of the stone.

Heart

Essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top containing 59 facets. The shape of the heart makes this diamond highly desirable for romantic occasions such as Valentine's Day and anniversaries.